九月刊

评分:
6.0 还行

原名:The September Issue又名:时尚恶魔的圣经 / 九月号的恶魔 / VOGUE九月刊

分类:纪录片 /  美国  2009 

简介: 由荣获美国艾美奖导演R·J·卡特尔执导的全新纪录片《九月刊》,聚焦时尚界女王级人

更新时间:2015-12-18

九月刊影评:还原一个真实的时尚教皇

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时尚教皇、时尚掌门人、时尚圣经、美帝最有权势的女人、世界上第25个最有权势的女人,、她广交社会名流、人脉遍布全球。为名人政要提供时尚建议。一句话就能决定一个设计师的生涯。这些都是贴在VOGUE杂志主编ANNA WINTOUR身上的标签。时尚离普通人很远,更何况处在时尚中心的关键人物。

九月刊带观众走近了ANNA以及她的VOGUE。影片以VOGUE9月刊从筹备到上市过程为主线,分别从主角WINTOUR以及下属一干人等审视VOGUE。影片没有花费笔墨去探讨时尚。而是聚焦于WINTOUR以及杂志背后的人们。写实还原一个有血有肉而非神化的VOGUE和WINTOUR(短发、墨镜、能洞穿一切的眼神)。她的高冷,不近人情以及人性弱点等等。但WINTOUR的成功从内在说得益于她的果断和持之以恒以及明确的人生目标。

杂志社工作过的人以及摄影师都能从本片中找到很多共鸣和有趣的启发。影片最有意味的一幕是WINTOUR发现另外一组硬照的摄影师并没有按照既定要求拍摄完照片,喊摄影师来编辑部。摄影师进到WINTOUR的办公室坐下,谈天说地,而WINTOUR一脸难看,一言不发。这个场景成了本片剧情转折点。

而影片高潮一幕发则是CODDINGTON重新拍摄被WINTOUR毙掉的硬照。CODDINGTON把本片剧组拉进片场参与拍摄。从摄影角度来说,个人觉得这组很有创意(剧组在片尾贴了一张)。CODDINGTON、WINTOUR和本片摄影师之间的对话(要不要PS掉摄影师的肚腩)。也给CODDINGTON加分不少。这些主观和客观POV,以观众的视角走进了时尚,给影片增添了一份人情味的触感,更真实,也并非一味冷眼旁观。不愧是在时尚界摸爬滚打了二十多年的老资历(CODDINGTON也与WINTOUR共事了二十多年)。

从本片中能深深感受到时尚界的男性有多麽的娘,从VOGUE的男性主编再到设计师。这些更加凸显出WINTOUR有多麽强势霸气。除了CODDINGTON私下底坚持己见之外,所有人都对WINTOUR言听计从。为啥?WINTOUR一来很有性格魅力。二来她非常有资历。时尚女王。有意思的是08年WINTOUR想让希拉里上VOGUE封面。但希拉里退出了,觉得自己太女人。WINTOUR后来在杂志里写道:
“很多人觉得女人变得阳刚一些就是想攫取权力了,这种想法让人沮丧无语。”
看完片子,写完这些文字,我路人转粉了。

Fashion world in the eyes of fashion pope.

As is known before, ANNA WINTOUR has unuqie personal branding etches in the fashion world. And September Issue, a documentary by J.C.Cutler, as a peep into WINTOUR's fashion cosmos the way she sees, brings us WINTOUR's saber-like eyes, almost piercing your body while she's looking straight at you. Unlike the news stories and newspaper features which pulls more mystery on the lengendary editor and her magazine and fashion world she spearheads, this movie demystifies the icon.

The film walks us the smooth storytelling of the magazine from planning to shipping interwoven by narratives, interviews from WINTOUR's workmates & employees(running the gamut of fashion from editors to models to photographers to fashion designers), as testimonials to reinforce WINTOUR's epic clout over magazine AND in the industry, plus her magnetic personality.The story might as well resonates with some magazine fellows and photographers as they could find that feel and experience. But it's not the point.What counts is capturing an illusory and risky realism how professionals think about fashion pioneered by WINTOUR in their eyes, instead of runways and catwalk shows.

For me, a dramatic moment comes when WINTOUR throws a sober face to summoned prestigious cover photograher MARIO TESTINO, who fell short of photo shoot on at his will. Clearly, WINTOUR IS unhappy. That twist paves the way for CODDINGTON's creative reshoot thanks to an ironic kill by also capricious WINTOUR. WINTOUR made a right decisive desion again with her eyes.

Added up to a funny, warm and humaternian touch, texture and emotion is CODDINGTON, with experience spanning over 25 years and coworking with WINTOUR seeing VOGUE growth, ideates the crew (Bob the cameramen goes first) into an imporvised reshoot, metaphorically a fresh a closeup and POVs into the fashion waves symbolized by VOGUE. A closer eye straight on fashion. A little Behind the scene dialogue on whether retouch BOB's belly or not delivers another intersting dimension and to personalities of WINTOUR and CODDINGTON. They ARE humans and accessible.And CODDINGTON is funnier that icewoman.

In the film, eveyone shows obedience to WINTOUR, and the men looks womennish. Frankingly dismaying. Why? Partly because WINTOUR is much too powerful,even Queen falls behind her. And she is an super-over-arching fashion authority with laser-percing eyes.

After finishing up the movie and this review, I feel myself being in thrall with WINTOUR. Like a fan.

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